"lauta de.. kashmir dobara"

 "lauta de.. kashmir dobara"

Dal Lake with awesome backdrop

 After lot of deliberation which was going on for over couple of years and planning for over quarter (primarily to get best package), we embarked on the journey to Kashmir. We had planned our trip in such a way that even though being a big group of 11 people; we ensured that our seats are nearby so that we have fun during every part of our journey.

 Actual journey started from Jammu from where we took the road to Srinagar. Under normal course it would have taken around 8 to 10 hours. We were hoping to not face any hurdles, at least for us during journey and stay there, somewhere in the back of mind we were prepared for any eventualities, definitely not very fatal ones. This mental preparation helped us in braving a 15 hours road journey where we have to face 3 hours protest of villagers, fortunately not the ones which is over-publicized like custodial death by army, but this turned out to be a murder in the village which was not properly investigated. For army the way they are trained to take superior’s command as their wish; these protest won’t affect them and they made their way irrespective how tourist or locals are affected. Apart from the natural beauty of the place, which really kept us engaged during the journey (except for those who have motion sickness during the road trip); army convoy, patches of unprepared road, landslides because of melting snow, was really frightening. Army convoy with soldiers ever ready for any combat convinces us things are far from normal.

School kids having a field day

As we were nearing Srinagar, we saw the local people dressed in one piece traditional Kashmiri warm cloth. We are used to seeing people wearing these type of clothes in news channels either in anti-government protests or processions under the aegis of separatist leaders. But seeing them live gives an impression as if we are uninvited guests. Amidst more than normal security arrangement, our nerves bit cool down, seeing the locals and tourist people move freely within the city. While dressing indicates they are not at all feudalistic, interaction with them shows they are moderate in their approach, contrary to the impression we carry of Muslim dominated locality, even in Indian metros. This gave us confidence that things here are like any other normal tourist destination.

After all site seeing when we were about to go for shopping in Lal Chowk, which is heart of Srinagar, our driver cautioned us as this is where major protests take place and is also an active spot of terror activity. This proof became stronger when we saw high alert security personnel all over the area and adding to this were aggression shown by the sales personnel of local shops by following us which created more suspicion if they were actually doing their job or collecting intelligence. Suddenly there was an armed patrol party getting down from their vehicle keeping a vigilant eye. Our inquisitiveness ran over our patience and when we checked with one of the shopkeepers, his gesture suggested that these are very normal things. The incidents which we get to hear from media are very stray one, which normally occur in the border area; whereas, city and tourist spots are insulated by these incidents. God’s gifted nature’s beauty had mesmerised us to the extent that we were not interested in knowing anything outside this world. Few curious calls from our loved ones checking our safety in midst of report of some protest, clash between the army and infiltrators, in fact one was at Shopian same day when we were travelling to Sringar.  Except road blockage we faced by angry villagers, visitors are completely unaffected by so called incidents, which questions if at all these are scripted by Media.

Sunrise !! from Dal Lake

Apart from general impression we have about Kashmiri’s anti India sentiment, they are angry about media blowing things out of proportion of any happenings, whether it is protest, encounter or nature’s catastrophe, which gives a sabotage angle of media playing in hand of politician of discouraging tourism in Kashmir, there by denying Kashmiri the main source of income, and Himachal Pradesh getting the benefit as they have the similar topography. And while topography might be the same, each state has its own uniqueness. Our on ground experience showed media is nothing but a TRP game on which their commercial depends and moreover no longer media gives an unbiased reporting, it is either lobbying group of a political party or corporate. If we have believed media we would not have fortune of visiting Kashmir.  With such unprecedented security, it looks impossible for anyone to sneak into Indian Territory but still we hear news about infiltrators in action, this makes us think about local’s opinion, is there black sheep in army who allow this or is it directive from the top to allow infiltrators to justify AFSA. Even if things are normal, presence of Army is needed, as we have experienced couple of misadventure by our neighbors.

to ensure that 

everything goes well 

 Even after the Nehru’s blunder of mentioning plebiscite in Kashmir in his speech, India had a lot of time to convince Kashmiris to become a part of India by exploring potential of Kashmir’s natural gift. Instead our leaders took route of appeasing them by way of article 370 and denied them basic needs. Instead of suppressing Kashmiri sentiment, dividing them, arresting their leaders particularly immediately after Independence, India should have equipped them with the basic needs which would have supported their lively hood. This would have translated Kashmiris defending India instead of huge contingent of army who forces law onto them. Select political elite ensured their comfort by following the Indian constitution but depriving majority of Kashmiris benefits of Indian government, not that we common people gets the entire benefit but we are not totally deprived. This select political class did nothing but lip service to their own people and now over the years, anger has accumulated, similar to formation of a volcano.  Volcano did erupt a couple of decades ago but it has now cooled down, although it is still being made active by separatist leaders taking advantage of these unhappy locals and provoking them against India.

Year 2014 saw sweeping political changes which gave a strong government in India, but J&K was divided between Hindus in Jammu and Muslims in Kashmir. Change promised by new government should also ensure that J&K, especially Kashmir get its dues and not continue the way previous government did over the decades. Unfortunately, the reality is that common people in this state is being crushed between petty politics, enemies within and across the border is taking advantage of the situation and ensuring it remains unstable. India will retain Kashmir at any cost, at the same time if Kashmir becomes independent or goes to Pakistan (which will never happen), it will be disastrous, the way we are witnessing what is happening to our neighbouring countries and turmoil in other Muslim nations. 

That doesn’t mean we take them for granted, instead would like to quote the lyrics of a famous Hindi song from a Malayalam movie:

 “Khuda se mannat hai meri..lauta de jannat woh meri.. woh aman.. woh chaman.. ka nazaara.. Oh kudha yaa.. lauta de.. kashmir dobara”

So peaceful, calm and serene !